Site Preparation

Before the assembly of an oak frame building commences, the ground needs to be prepared and foundations put in place and site preparation is the first part of the overall build process. Due to the density of oak the timber is surprisingly heavy and full foundations are required to support the structure. Albion Oak will supply CAD drawing for a builder to put in the foundations although the depth and type of foundation does depend on the ground conditions. Whether it’s a supply only kit or full build we supply full instructions for the assembly team to construct the frame.

Builders or groundworkers typically provide only an estimate for the works, as underground conditions are often uncertain however a metre deep strip footing is the most common. Key Points

1. Site Preparation

Goal: Create a clean, level, and stable area ready for building.

Step 1: Site Survey and Layout • Land surveying: A licensed surveyor maps the property’s boundaries, slope, and features. • Staking out: Builders mark where the house will sit using stakes and strings (known as batter boards and string lines). • Orientation: The layout ensures correct positioning for sunlight, views, and drainage. Step 2: Clearing and Excavation • Clearing: Remove vegetation, trees, rocks, and debris. • Topsoil removal: Strip the top 6–12 inches of soil, as it’s usually too soft for construction. • Excavation: Dig trenches or a hole for the foundation (depending on whether it’s a slab, crawl space, or basement). Step 3: Grading and Drainage • Grading: The ground is levelled and shaped to slope slightly away from the house for proper drainage. • Compaction: Soil is compacted using heavy machinery to prevent future settling. • Erosion control: Install silt fences or drainage ditches to prevent soil erosion, especially on sloped lots. Step 4: Utilities Preparation • Utility trenches: Dug for water, gas, electricity, and sewer lines before foundation work starts. • Temporary services: A temporary electrical panel or water supply might be installed for construction use.

2. Foundation Construction

Goal: Build a solid, level base that supports the entire house and transfers its weight

safely into the ground.

Step 1: Setting the Footings • Formwork: Wooden or metal moulds outline the shape of the footings. • Reinforcement: Steel rebar is placed inside for strength. • Concrete pouring: Concrete is poured into the forms, typically 8–12 inches thick and wider than the foundation walls. • Curing: The concrete hardens over several days to gain full strength. Step 2: Building the Foundation Walls (if not slab-on- grade) • Forming: Concrete forms or concrete blocks are used to build vertical walls on top of the footings. • Rebar placement: Reinforcement rods tie walls to the footings. • Concrete pouring: For poured foundations, concrete is poured into forms and allowed to cure. • Anchor bolts: Bolts are embedded in the top of the walls to secure the wood framing later. Step 3: Waterproofing and Drainage • Damp-proofing: Apply bituminous coating or waterproof membranes to the exterior walls. • Drainage tile or pipe: Perforated drainpipes are laid around the base to divert groundwater away. • Gravel backfill: Backfill with gravel or coarse material to promote drainage and prevent pressure build-up. Step 4: Slab or Basement Floor • Base preparation: Spread gravel (4–6 inches) and compact it. • Vapour barrier: A plastic sheet is laid to block moisture. • Reinforcement: Wire mesh or rebar grid added for strength. • Concrete slab pouring: Concrete is poured and levelled with a screed. • Finishing: Surface is trowelled smooth or brushed for texture. • Curing: Concrete cures for several days before framing begins. Once the foundations and dwarf wall are cured the frame can then be assembled before the roof is tiled and any joinery fitted to create a watertight shell.

Site Preparation

Permitted Development

Buildings which are behind the principle elevation of your property and under 4m in height can usually be built under permitted development. We have a range of standard designs which fall under permitted development or we can design something to suit. You can apply for a Lawful Development Certificate if you want some paperwork to prove that your building is allowed under permitted development rules. Some people might like to see some evidence that your building complies if you sell your property but it’s not a necessity.

When Does Permitted Development Apply?

An oak-framed building, such as a garage, garden room, or extension, may qualify under permitted development if it complies with the following guidelines:

Purpose and Usage:

• The building must be incidental to the main dwelling (e.g. a garage, home office, gym or storage). • Living accommodation, such as an annex, often requires planning permission.

Size Limits:

• The maximum height is 4 metres for dual-pitched roofs or 3 metres for other roof types. • Eaves height cannot exceed 2.5 metres if within 2 metres of a boundary. • Total ground area covered by outbuildings must not exceed 50% of the land around the original house.

Location Restrictions:

• The structure must not be in front of the principal elevation of your home. • It must maintain appropriate distance from boundaries. • Some areas, such as conservation zones, national parks, or listed properties, have stricter controls.

Special Designations:

• For properties within areas of outstanding natural beauty (AONB) or similar zones, restrictions on size and placement may apply.

Roof Design:

• Flat roofs are restricted to a maximum height of 3 metres. • Balconies or raised platforms are not permitted under permitted development. To ensure your oak-framed project meets permitted development requirements, contact our team today. We’ll guide you through the process, offering tailored advice to bring your vision to life - whether it’s under permitted development or through a successful planning application.

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